Key Pad Article #2

Thanks to "ToyMan" for contributing this article. A link to more photos can be found at the bottom of this page. This is part two of a two part article. Click here to view part one.

Disclaimer: Please note that these articles are posted strictly for informational and educational purposes only. FordF150.net is not responsible for any modifications you may make to your vehicle, nor the results you may have. Performing some of the procedures shown on this site may void your warranty. If in doubt, check with Ford or your local dealer for assistance.

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Notes: If you have a remote keyless entry there is a good chance you can install the keypad. I paid $130 out-the-door for the handle and keypad. Look under the dash and see if you have a white box with a 5 digit number on it. This is the RAP module which the keypad connects to. Don't know about a 98. I have a 2000 Lightning and it hooked up very well. 

The part number for the keypad is YL3Z-14A6266-AA, and the number for the handle is as follows: XL1Z-7822405-BAK Silver (YN), XL1Z-7822405-DAB Red (E4), XL1Z-7822405-BAJ White (Y0), XL1Z-7822405-BAH Black (UA).

Just completed the install of the Keyless Entry Keypad. I reviewed the instructions on the Expedition board and printed out the wiring diagram. Then examined the module on my 2000 L and recognized that the wires were already in place for the keypad. Went to the dealer and the wiring diagram did show that the wiring harness was in the door.

Do this with the window up at all times.

Remove the door panel by popping off the “sail” panel and the door handle trim. Both should be removed by hand without the use and any tools. This revealed a Phillips screw under each one. Remove both screws and lift the door panel up and it comes right off. Unplug all the wiring connectors from the door panel. Just squeeze the release button and pull out.

Next remove the speaker and unplug it. Then used a hair dryer to slowly remove the stuck-on insulation. Remove the entire piece. Look into the top right of the speaker hole and you will find the mysterious plug for the keypad.

Push the 2 small white clips and the plug comes right out.

In my excitement knowing that I didn’t have to go through the nightmare of completely wiring the keypad, I plugged it in for an immediate test.

I looked at the white control module (RAP – Remote Anti-theft Personality) and got my access number. Keyed in the 5 digit and then came the big smile on my face. All features worked.

The next step was to remove the handle. I used a 10 MM socket to get the right nut off. The left nut was real difficult to remove. The connector rod between the handle and the locking mechanism was directly in the way. I used a universal joint for my ¼ “ socket driver and eventually was able to get it off. Using a 3/8 or ½ socket driver will be too large as there is not much room in there. Might give it a try though if that is all you have. The nuts were not 3/8 inch. A 3/8 inch socket could possibly work but there is a threat of rounding off the nut.

I also loosened the bolt holding the left window channel to the door. Lower left corner of the below photo. This helps to get around better to get the left nut off.

MAJOR HINT: look at the below photo and you will see a yellow clip that is holding the connector rod to the locking mechanism. The clip can be opened and the rod will come right off. Then it can be removed from the handle. This will make it real easy to get the left nut off. I didn’t do this until I had gotten the handle off. Since this part is threaded, I didn’t know if the clip came off or if the rod was screwed in. The clip does just hold it in. The threads are to make sure it does not slip up and down.

Before removing the handle, I surrounded the entire area with duct tape so the handle would not scratch anything. Good thing as it is real tight getting the lock clip out of the handle assembly

I then removed the handle by pushing the lower part out far enough to get the clip loose that holds the door lock in. Used a pair of channel locks to pull the U shaped pin out. The lock then fell out and I removed the small rod that connects it to the locking mechanism. Only remove the rod from the lock itself and let it dangle inside the door.

Next step was to install the lock and keypad on the new handle. Put the lock back in the handle and secure it with the U shaped pin that holds it in. DON’T put the connector rod for the lock back on yet. This can be done after the new handle has been bolted in. Attach the keypad to the handle (one screw). My keypad did not come with a screw. Be careful with the size and length of the screw you use since this is plastic and if you crack the hole opening YOU are screwed and not the handle. Check with you dealer and see if he shows a part number for the screw.

Feed the keypad wiring through the door handle hole and put the handle in the door. Don’t connect the rod for the handle at this time. In fact, if you removed it to get the left nut off it should be completely out of the door. Connect the plug and test it. Pressing the 7/8 9/0 together to lock the doors and key in your 5 digit code to unlock them. Then unplug it. Since there is no bare wires to contend with, it is not necessary to disconnect the battery for this install.

Put the 10 MM nuts back on. Might want to get someone to hold the handle in place from the outside of the door. It moves a little so they can keep it centered. After the handle is secured, secure the keypad wiring harness inside the door. On your wiring harness you will see 2 white clips. These are to hold it in place inside the door. Believe it or not, there are 2 openings in the very top of the door area. Look all the way to the top and you will see 2 oval holes 11 inches apart. Plug em in. If they are a little off just untape the clips and move them enough to plug in. I had to move the one closest to the handle about 3/8 inch so it would plug in.

Make sure the plug assemble goes behind the window channel DUH! Plug that sucker in and you are about done. Test it again.

With my keypad assembly, the wires were not long enough to secure the plug back to the door with the 2 white clips. I folded the excess wires and taped them together with duct tape. See below.

Sorry about the blurred picture.

Now connect the door handle rod to the handle and place the threaded end back on the door lock mechanism and pop the yellow clip back in place. Also, just push the door lock connecting rod onto the lock in the handle.

You are done with the keypad part. Do a final test and put the door back together. Here’s what mine looks like.

If you want these instructions without the photos e-mail me.

It took me 3 hours to do this install. It took me 2 hours to get the left nut off. With these instructions you should be able to do this in about 1 hour. The biggest trick is to remove the yellow clip on the door handle connector rod and removing the window channel bolt.

Album of photos at http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293851655

Update: 

I went back into my door and make a modification that will allow the 2 clips on the plug to attach to the door in the same manner it was before the install. To view my keypad install photos go to my album at http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293851655 and view the bottom 2 photos and note that the 2 new holes are just to the left of the rectangular opening.

I had to drill 2 holes about 6 inches from the old ones at the eleven o'clock position. The larger hole is 1/4 inch and the smaller one 3/16. Since the new hole will be rougher than the original factory hole it will be necessary to ream the hole out a little to get the clips to pop in.

If you do this mod take extreme caution when drilling so the bit does not get pulled through the hole and into the outer door surface. As soon as the drill bit breaks through it will have a tendancy to corkscrew into the hole. BE CAREFUL. And yes, I was able to stop the drill bit once it started to corkscrew through the hole.