Ford F150 - 92 F150 4X4 won't start w/ clutch in and hard to shift

Hi all,
Found this site searching for info on my brother-in-laws 92 F150 4X4 with a starting prob. He complained that over the last month or so the clutch pedal had to be pushed really hard to get it to start. He also noted that it was grinding slightly between shifts. We replaced the clutch 6 months ago so I made sure the system was bled properly again and I suspected the clutch pedal safety switch was bad again. I began searching for info to bypass the switch and after not finding answers on what wires would go where (there are 6 of them!?!), I looked at everything in the truck again. While lying on my back staring up under the dash, I moved the clutch pedal down and noticed the pedal shaft was moving back and rotating instead of staying stationary and rotating. I found there to be a plastic (thanks Ford) bushing for the end of that shaft. The bushing wore out and the shaft started to wear into the pedal bracket assembly. I also noticed the bushing on the clutch master cylinder rod was worn as well. Between that, the worn pedal shaft bushing and now worn bracket, the shaft would move back about 3/16" and the arm in the rod moved forward 1/16". This was a 1/4" movement before the clutch master cylinder rod even moved. With all of that slop the push rod simply wasn't traveling as far as it should.

I called up Ford to ask about parts, the bushing kit was $21 and the master cylinder rod bushing was $11. I asked about the availability of pedal assembly bracket and was told it is sold as a unit with both the brake and clutch pedals and a bushing kit for $170! I opted for just the 2 bushing kits.

Removal wasn't too bad. Under the dash, the steering shaft unclamped from the steering column and pushed through the firewall (don't loose orientation between the 2), disconnected both master cylinders from the pedal assembly, removed start safety switch from clutch master cylinder, removed brake light switch, cruise control cut out switch from brake pedal and finally the cruise control cut out switch bracket from the pedal assembly bracket.

Under the hood I removed the clutch master cylinder, brake master cylinder - both master cylinders simply pulled away and sat there without removing any lines - and removed cruise control unit from fender.

Back under the dash to remove the 4 nuts holding the brake vacuum booster and pedal assembly bracket to the firewall.

Back under the hood, vacuum booster was pulled away from the firewall and sat on top of the engine.

Back under the dash for 2 more bolts in the pedal assembly and pulled the whole unit out.

You'll have to do all of this unless you're replacing just the right side bushing. It can be changed out with the pedal assembly in the truck. All that has to be removed is the arm on the right side of the pedal shaft that connects to the clutch master cylinder. Remove the nut, mark the arm and shaft so it goes back on in the same place, and then with 2 screwdrivers, pry the arm off. It will take a little work to remove the old bushing. Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come out to be repaired or replaced. The new plastic bushing needs that bracket there for support and if it's installed into that worn out hole, you'll be replacing the bushing again in no time. If the bracket looks good, install the new bushing, slide arm onto shaft with marks lined up and tighten down the nut. Done! I recommend replacing the plastic bushing in the clutch master cylinder rod as well for good measure.

We didn't want to spend the money on a new pedal assembly so repair was in order. I removed the nut on the arm for the clutch master cylinder (marking where the arm sat on the shaft so everything lined up again). Removed the shaft, pedals and bushings. Welded the worn area back up. Ground and filed it back to where it should be for the new bushing to fit. Replaced the all of the bushings, lightly greased the pedal shaft, reassembled the pedal assembly and installed it back into the truck. Now it starts and shifts like new. Total project time was about 3 hours including fixing the pedal assembly bracket.

Feel free to ask questions if any

I wanted to publicly thank the poster of this repair process. I recently had the well known clutch push rod bushing failure for about the third time. You know the one where the push rod jumps off the linkage unexpectedly and the pedal slams to the floor. Well, this time a new bushing didn't stop the problems and I finally discovered that there was a bit of deflection in the main horizontal clutch tube. The plastic bushings on this cross tube (that the pedals pivot on) had to be worn. It didn't look like a very fun job to take on during my work week so I dropped my '95 off at the local dealer and told them to install bushings. The service advisor gave me a call a bit later and said that the bushings weren't available separately and the complete clutch pedal assembly was going to cost me $180! That was bad enough, but I almost fainted when he said the labor was going to be $360! I told him that was too much and came and got it back.

I found this post after a while of Google searching and it gave me the confidence to take the repair on. Without this post all I had was a Haynes manual that didn't even cover my year model very well.

I'm glad to report that things went better than expected. The bushings were available at another (honest) Ford dealer for $11.70 and it took me about two-three hours to do this at a totally leisurely pace. Luckily I caught it early enough and didn't have to replace or weld an egg-shaped housing like the original poster. I will offer a few comments:

(1) The steering column move is not as difficult as it sounds, especially if the key locks the steering on your model. You will see a universal joint under the dash that I found easiest to remove at both ends (of the joint). Spray some WD-40 on the square shaft where it goes in both ends of the UV joint. A slight tap with a plastic mallet will also loosen it up. Then push the lower section of square rod all the way flush to the firewall. You don't need to do anything with the shaft on the engine compartment side. When you are done just pull her back up and re-install the UV joint in place.

(2) I did not find it necessary to remove the cruise control.

(3) I wouldn't consider replacing any of the bushings without pulling the whole assembly. The original poster mentions the right side bushing can be replaced with assembly in place, but I would highly discourage trying to do this. It would be much more of a pain and also, if you are going to replace bushings on only one side you are just band aiding the situation. Do both.

(4) Instead of trying to pry the side lever off with screw drivers, screw the nut over shaft slightly to protect the end threads and then hit the nut with a hammer to knock the shaft through the lever. Don't forget to mark the location first! I made scribe lines on the housing that were parallel to the sides of the lever.

(5) Make sure you install the bushings exactly in the same direction and order as removed. I tried to install one the wrong way, but was patient and figured it out.

(6) It is a good idea to polish the shaft with FINE sandpaper until it is smooth and shiny. Lubricate the shaft and ID of the bushings liberally during reassembly. I just used multi-purpose grease, but lithium grease would probably be better.

Assembly is easy. You will notice a big difference in how everything feels and shifts after doing this. My thanks again to the original poster. Hopefully my comments will help someone else.

Oh yeah, never visit the service department “Team Ford” in Marietta Georgia. Check out their reviews (including mine) on Google if you are thinking of doing business there.

Stan

Great job Stan!

I have recently purchased a 1992 ford f150. My clutch came unhooked and I noticed that the plastic bushing had broke. I recently purchased a new one for $10 from Ford. I replaced it only to have it break a couple of weeks later. I just found a new one for $4 at Autozone. I am wondering if I should slightly lubricate it when I snap it on. Any suggestions?

Lubrication won't help. It will probably brake again. It sucks to all of the sudden have no clutch and the pedal flat against the floor. I ended up naking a brass bushing to fit with a c-clip to hold in place. Works great so far.

Yeah, I tried putting some grease and that was a mistake b/c instead of breaking it just came off. I need to come up with something to hold it. Did you keep part of the plastic linkage inside for friction? I am wondering if I can break off the 4 tabs on the linkage and place a c-clip or a jesus clip on there.

Carefully look at how the linkage is moving as the pedal is depressed. Oviously you will have to stick your head up under there with a bright light. What you will see is that there is some side load going into the rod end that is causing it to want to jump off the pivot. I replaced at least four of them. The prongs on the end would quickly break off. While I was working on resolving the problem I used lock wire to hold the rod end on as a bandaid. I had already had two close calls when the clutch lever totally jumped off in traffic. Needless to say, that will get your attention. One problem I discovered were the plastic buskings on the main shaft that the pedals attached to were worn. This caused the whole shaft to deflect a little. I guess you read my post about replacing those. Even with fixing this major part of the problem I still had a jump off. I decided I would make a bronze bushing to replace the plastic one. Ironically I found something that nearly worked out of the box in the same area Auto Zone sells the little plastic bushings in. You know, where they have all the strange little parts that often fail and you need an immediate replacement (I think the packages say HELP on them). Anyway, there was a kit with bushings and c-clips of assorted sizes for fixing roll-up windpws. I had to ream out one of the bushings with a Dremel tool, but it and one of the c-clips finally worked. It hasn't broken yet. If it does I am going to make my own rod complete with a spherical ball rod end. I was almost ready to order one of these (rod ends) from Grainger that I believed to be the right size to fit on the pivot pin. I wish you the best of luck with this "Ford Tough" design.

Stan

Hey all,
Thanks for posting this info.
The shops wanted $300 and up just as a starting price on my 1992 F-150. My self and our 14 YO was able to remove it in about 1 hour. Took the assembly to a machine shop. The cost was $50 to fix the wallowed out hole re-drill it and make another pin (Ford sell this part for about $25)for the clutch rod and tap it for a 3/32 hitch pin clip. It is a good ideal to take one with you so they get the hole the right size.
Caution: the left side hole and right side hole for the connector rod (where the large bushings go I think its about a 5/8 rod) from the pedal to the clutch master cylinder are different sizes.

The bushing kit from Ford was $14 I got a wholesale price, normally $19. No parts stores sell these they only sell the small bushings where the pedals connect to the assembly. Advance was about $6 Orileys is about $3 includes the clip for the clutch pedal. I got plastic washers that look like fender washers from the local Do It yourself hardware store about .25 cents each.
All total it took about 3 hours work.

1- Mark and remove the blot for the steering column. Remove the bottom bolt it has to be remove all the way since the shaft is notched for the bolt. Let it fall to the firewall.

2- Remove the clips for the pedals so the are free moving helps to get around them. The clutch will spring back with a little pressure.

3- The brake light switch. (I have a basic model)so no cruise.

4- The 4 bolts behind that hold the power brake booster in place.

5- The 2 nuts for the clutch master cylinder. (Which are under the hood)

It is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder separate from the power brake booster. I loosely hung the clutch master cylinder with a zip tie so not to damage a line.
Both pulled all the way back out of the way.
I did not have to disconnect the clutch start switch due to it being jumped and already disconnected by some one else.

6- The last two bolts at the top that hold the plate in place. A little finagling and out it came.
When reinstalling make sure the pin for the clutch pedal is down,with the clutch pedal out, not up or else it will not go into place.
7- I found it easier to start the 4 for the power brake booster first this help me to get it about in place.

8- Then the two for the clutch master cylinder.

9- Last the 2 above.
I used the plastic washers as bushings for the clutch rod. I had to drill them out a little. Put the hitch pin in place in the hole a had the machine shop tap for me. Reattached the brake rod and switch.
I notice that it shifts like a whole new truck. No clunking and no sticking of the clutch pedal as before. It would stick and the thunk into up position.
I hope this help all questions welcome....

Does anyone know the part number or if the push rod bushing is available as an aftermarket part. I broke mine when I needed to remove the clutch master.

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94 F150 4X4 5.0 5 speed 215K
01 CVPI 164K

Hi guys, first post, but don't be gentle. I'm a rogue Ford tech and I like to put repairs to my own vehicle off as long as possible. I have a 1995 F150 and my clutch pedal took a dive and never came back up, so I replaced the bushing, the pedal fell again. I found the pedal shaft bushings worn. I'm cheap and don't have time or patience to go under the dash for extended periods of time, that's kid stuff, so out came the zip ties. The first zip tie lasted a couple months, after leaving a little more slack in the second zip tie it lasted 9 months, two years and 30,000 miles later, still on the third zip tie. I have a few extra zip ties in my glove box for on the go repairs.

I know that this will make some people cringe, so here's a picture. Its ok, I'm certified.

My '89 F-150 5 speed has the same problem. the bushings are good for now,but the shaft hole is egg shaped out. i put a carabiner in the hole. I have to replace them every few months, but I haven't spent more than 10.00 on them yet. Btw, the zip tie idea is great!!! sounds like you may be a professional.

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I found this when my clutch pedal went to the floor. The write-up is great and made my life a whole lot easier, but I didn't see any part numbers until I looked on a few OEM websites.

My local O'Reilly's had the 'push rod bushing' (one between the clutch master pushrod and the pedal) for $7.99 in stock, in the help isle. Part # is 14041.

The part # for the the OEM Ford bushing kit is 43-6014 or F3TZ-2C342-A. Mine are on their way now from LMC truck, to the tune of $26.70 shipped.

I may take some pics of everything coming apart if I find time when I do the job.

Hope this helps

Would making a brass or steel bushing for the right side remedy this problem for an egg shaped hole in the pedal bracket ? Thanks to all especially the creator of this thread.

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