I wanted to publicly thank the poster of this repair process. I recently had the well known clutch push rod bushing failure for about the third time. You know the one where the push rod jumps off the linkage unexpectedly and the pedal slams to the floor.
Well, this time a new bushing didn't stop the problems and I finally discovered that there was a bit of deflection in the main horizontal clutch tube. The plastic bushings on this cross tube (that the pedals pivot on) had to be worn. It didn't look like a very fun job to take on during my work week so I dropped my '95 off at the local dealer and told them to install bushings. The service advisor gave me a call a bit later and said that the bushings weren't available separately and the complete clutch pedal assembly was going to cost me $180! That was bad enough, but I almost fainted when he said the labor was going to be $360!
I told him that was too much and came and got it back.
I found this post after a while of Google searching and it gave me the confidence to take the repair on. Without this post all I had was a Haynes manual that didn't even cover my year model very well.
I'm glad to report that things went better than expected.
The bushings were available at another (honest) Ford dealer for $11.70 and it took me about two-three hours to do this at a totally leisurely pace. Luckily I caught it early enough and didn't have to replace or weld an egg-shaped housing like the original poster. I will offer a few comments:
(1) The steering column move is not as difficult as it sounds, especially if the key locks the steering on your model. You will see a universal joint under the dash that I found easiest to remove at both ends (of the joint). Spray some WD-40 on the square shaft where it goes in both ends of the UV joint. A slight tap with a plastic mallet will also loosen it up. Then push the lower section of square rod all the way flush to the firewall. You don't need to do anything with the shaft on the engine compartment side. When you are done just pull her back up and re-install the UV joint in place.
(2) I did not find it necessary to remove the cruise control.
(3) I wouldn't consider replacing any of the bushings without pulling the whole assembly. The original poster mentions the right side bushing can be replaced with assembly in place, but I would highly discourage trying to do this. It would be much more of a pain and also, if you are going to replace bushings on only one side you are just band aiding the situation. Do both.
(4) Instead of trying to pry the side lever off with screw drivers, screw the nut over shaft slightly to protect the end threads and then hit the nut with a hammer to knock the shaft through the lever. Don't forget to mark the location first! I made scribe lines on the housing that were parallel to the sides of the lever.
(5) Make sure you install the bushings exactly in the same direction and order as removed. I tried to install one the wrong way, but was patient and figured it out.
(6) It is a good idea to polish the shaft with FINE sandpaper until it is smooth and shiny. Lubricate the shaft and ID of the bushings liberally during reassembly. I just used multi-purpose grease, but lithium grease would probably be better.
Assembly is easy. You will notice a big difference in how everything feels and shifts after doing this. My thanks again to the original poster. Hopefully my comments will help someone else.
Oh yeah, never visit the service department “Team Ford” in Marietta Georgia. Check out their reviews (including mine) on Google if you are thinking of doing business there.