Ford F150 - PINON SEAL

Morning guys and gals i was just looking 2000 expy over last night and noticed that oily film all over the underside, and it looks like it's coming from the rearend ,i wiped it with my finger and it smells like gear oil.Has anybody have an idea what's involved and cost to replace the seal.

http://www.differentials.com/install.html

In other words, that link is really saying, DON'T do this job unless you KNOW what your doing.

Cheers

THANKS FOR THE IMPUT AFTER LOOKING AT THE SITE I COME TO THAT CONCLUSION , IM MECHANICALLY INCLINED BUT NOT ENOUGH TO ATTACK THAT THANKS AGAIN.

yeah i help if you know what you are doing, you mess up and it will cost you alot more in the end

I did this on a 94 Suburban 2WD knowing nothing. On that, it sounded alot more complicated that it really was. I hate dripping oil ... sooooo ... I tackled it. I don't know if Ford procedure is the same. Nothing I read or found included all the info I needed in one place. Bits and pieces from several sources. When it was time to finally crush the collar, had a school bus maitenance supervisor there & his knowledge was very helpful. Had it down for a few days.

Assuming there are no other problems (like having a loose pinion nut that backed off), it can be done fairly easy, and with the wheels on the ground.

Make sure the parking brake is on, and block the front wheels so they won't roll. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential.

Scribe a mark on both the pinion nut AND the pinion shaft. Loosen the nut, counting the EXACT number of turns until it comes off the pinion shaft.

Remove the drive flange. It may take a few taps on the backside with a hammer to remove.

Pry out the old seal and install the new one. Try not to bend the metal part of the new seal. Use a large socket or pipe coupling, etc., that fits over the outer part of the seal. Tap on the socket, or whatever you use, driving the seal in evenly. Try not to drive it in with it cocked to one side.

Once the seal is installed, apply a generous amount of threadlocking compound to the threads. This is very important.

Reinstall the drive flange.

Tighten the nut the exact number of turns, until the mark on the nut and the end of the pinion shaft line up exactly. This should bring the pinion preload back to where it was before you removed the nut.

DO NOT go past the mark, because this will crush the crush sleeve further, and will cause the pinion preload to be too high. The nut should tighten fairly easy until you reach the mark.

If you do this right, you will have no problems. It won't take very long, and the only cost will be the threadlocking compund and the seal.