I need help. I have a 1990 Ford F150 with auto trans and a 351 engine. It will not crank. The starter, ignition switch and the starter relay switch have all been tested. The battery is fine. Someone told me the neutral safety switch. Is there anyway I can test it without a meter? Also, if I jump the two terminals of the starter relay, it will crank. I amd in need of getting it fixed quick as it is my only transportation to work. I live on the Mississippi Gulf Coast (where Katrina hit) and there is about a 2 week waiting list to get cars in the shop. Would it hurt if I placed a push button start running off of the terminals of the relay? Thanks for any help.
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:58 pm Posts: 2568
My Photos My Truck Mods Location: Capon Bridge, WV
It does sound like the neutral switch.
Probably someone on here can tell you where that switch is located. You could put a jumper on it to test it and see if that is the problem. My guess is that it is under the dash on the shifter somewhere but that is just a guess.
No, it won't hurt to put a push button start switch across the relay. Just always be careful to have the truck in neutral or park when you start it.
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:58 pm Posts: 2568
My Photos My Truck Mods Location: Capon Bridge, WV
Put a jumper on that neutral switch and see if it will start. If it does, then squirt some WD-40 in that switch if you can: maybe that will free it up.
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 1:19 pm Posts: 6375
My Photos My Truck Mods Location: Memphis, TN Truck: 83 Bronco w/major mods
The early MLPS (NSS, DTR) was redesigned because of water intrusion corroding the terminals. You think you might have some water in there???
All the replacements (Ford or aftermarket) are the new design, which require a different connector, but the NAPA one (at least) includes all the parts & instructions to convert your connector - no cutting/splicing.
Just got through playing with it, here is the odd thing. If I manually press the ignition actuator it will start (but i have to jiggle the shifter knob). Now, once I put the column back together and turn the key, it will not crank. It is like the key cannot turn it far enough. I set the tumbler back in the same position it came out.
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:58 pm Posts: 2568
My Photos My Truck Mods Location: Capon Bridge, WV
You are probably aware that the electronic part of the ignition switch is down on top of the column above the pedals. --It has slotted mountings. Loosten those 7/16 bolts a bit and slide it up toward the steering wheel a little bit. That will allow the rod that the acutator operates to have a better reach on that switch.
Having said that, there is the possibility that that switch itself is defective. There was a recall on them way back in the years. They cost something like $15, only available from Ford.
Thanks Steve 83 for the pictures. I realigned the NSS it started fine for a little while. But before the last post came about saftey switch I kinda fgured it out for myself and adjusted the ignition switch. It cranks perfectly and runs great. thanks for all the help. Please look over the misteakes, i work the midnight shift and haven't slept yet.
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