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 Post subject: Dual Batteries
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 7:41 pm 
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I am getting a winch and want to run dual batteries to handle the extra load along with the extra lighting I am adding. Was wondering what setup works best and if anyone on here is running dual batteries that might have some suggestions.


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 Post subject: Dual Batteries 
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 10:55 pm 
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Not running them on my truck, but... I would also consider running dual alternators if you can. A battery is more of an electrical storage tank. Whatever the winch draws, the alternator is going to try to put out to keep the battery at charge. Two will make this job much much easier. You also won't get as much voltage drop and have better performance.

Nick 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:20 am 
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You could also get a higher output alternator, Some capacitors and a dual purpose battery.
and do the big three electrical upgrades.
Check this out. Hope it helps

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ulti ... =007801;p=


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:55 am 
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Caps probably won't help with a winch. They're good for the low duty cycle of electronics (high amp draw for very short durations - like bass hits, etc). A winch on the other hand will require high current for as long as it is running under load.

A high output alternator will do the same, but are generally more expensive and more difficult to come by. Newer ambulances and emergency vehicles have gone to multiple alternators for just this reason. Also, if one fails you have another for backup. Many limos use dual alternators also.

Another factor to consider is that alternators won't put out the maximum current until the motor is wound up to AT LEAST 2000 RPM. It's pretty hard to run a winch while you're trying to gas the truck.

I don't know if they still do or not, but I've seen a few of the older generation (9?-97 or so) Superduties with the Power Stroke that had a dual battery setup. These were service trucks.

Nick 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:06 am 
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check out this site:

http://www.hellroaring.com/4wheel.htm


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:12 am 
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RkyMtnHi wrote:
:thumb:
Great site. That give a good understanding.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:45 am 
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RkyMtnHi wrote:


Thanks for the excellent info :thumb:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 1:28 pm 
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IMO, it's always better to use a continuous-duty relay (winch relay) than an electronic isolator. They're more durable, & don't create a voltage drop like diodes do. That's how Ford wired up dual batteries in the early 80s when they offered it as an option.

Image

The Wh/Pu wire goes to an ignition-switched fuse so it's hot in RUN or ACC, but dead in OFF or START. That keeps it charged when the engine is running, but protects it from draining during cranking. If you kill the main battery from cranking, you can swap them. It also provides extra reserve time with the key in ACC for the winch, lights, or stereo.

But the big advantage to relays is that you can wire them up to suit you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:45 pm 
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just out of curiosity has anyone here ever looked into getting a pto or hydraulic winch on their truck?

i was looking into buying a 2000 f150 a few months back that was an ex gov't vehicle that had a pto winch on it. the pto was still on the transfer case but the winch was removed.

http://www.4wdonline.com/Equip/winch-TJM.html

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 7:01 pm 
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Some of the heavier '90-96 trucks had a PTO plate on the BW 1356 t-case, but the only transmissions w/PTO were the ZF M5OD-HD (each side), BW T18/19, & NP 435 (all stickshifts).


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