Ford F150 - Several problems with 2004 F150 5.4L, PLEASE HELP!!!!

This is going to be long, and I apologize in advance.

1st prob- 2 wks after purchase (used w/43K miles), engine would die when slowing down or at idle. Seemed to happen more frequently when the engine had been running for awhile and was hot. Would usually run normal after letting it cool down. Oh, check engine light came on after first intance and stayed on. Also, when it would die, the wrench light would come on. To get it going again, had to start it in neutral, keep it revved until traffic was clear, then throw it in drive and stomp on the gas to keep the rpms up and get the truck to go. Took it to dealership; they changed the MAF. Seemed to fix it, but about a month or so later, the same thing started happening again. One year and 4 MAFs later, still had the issue. Finally, I did some research (on this forum, thanks again guys) and discovered the likely prob was the TPS. Ordered from O'Reilly.com, changed it in 20 minutes, and THAT prob was fixed.

2nd prob- decided to save $$ and changed spark plugs on my own w/o doing any advanced research (i know, i know, i should have learned my lesson the 1st time.) Anyway, broke two plugs and again came to forum and found solution (after 10 hours of head-scratching and tool-throwing): Lisle spark-plug remover tool specially designed to fix Ford's f*up (well, one of them) at Schuck's; worked like a dream. Finished changing all but the back 2 plugs because I cannot reach them.

3rd (and current) prob- extremely rough idle and severe shaking when overdrive is engaged going 45+mph and when downshifting. When started, it runs perfect for about 5-10 seconds at around 750 rpms, then it sort of settles into idling and goes down to about 550-600 rpms; this is when the shaking starts. Does not have any issues when driving in lower gears. If I turn the O/D off at higher speeds, the shaking goes away, but I might as well just pour my gas on the road and walk. The codes the OBD II reader pulled were P1000, P1550, P1780, P1703, and P1464. again have researched the forums tirelessly and cannot find a solution. Seems that these codes basically mean that the reader coudn't finish the test and that these are useless codes. How can I fix that prob so I can at least get the right codes to fix my other probs?

It seems that all of these could be one or a combination of the following: faulty PCM, clogged fuel injector, bad COPs, dirty throttle body, vacuum leak, broken O/D snap ring, or just plain old needs a new transmission and a few more, but I just can't remember them all. Could the prob be the back two plugs? I disconnected each COP and plug one by one, and the rough idle got worse with all, so that did not help isolate the issue either. As of now, the check engine light is still on and has been since pretty much since the 1st prob above happened.

Has anyone else had the 3rd prob or a combo of the 3? Could they be related? I can't afford to just go down the line and fix everything above, to get it looked at is $250+, and that is for no fixes.

I should also mention that after the dying prob #1 was fixed, a K&N cold air intake was put on. This seemed to cause extreme probs with the MAF, and it has since been removed from truck and MAF cleaned. I also recently installed an aftermarket autostart/keyless entry (which works fine). Again, not sure if any of the changes are related to my probs, just wanted to put all the info out there so hopefully someone will have some insight for me.

***Oh, and if it is helpful to know, everything was fine after I changed the TPS in August and the spark plugs about a month ago. The problem began last Saturday when hauling my four-wheeler (combined w/trailer weight, max 900 lbs). I went to pass someone on a hill, and got on it a little. This is when the violent shaking began. I had to drive home with the O/D off going about 35 mph so that it wouldn't shake.


I AM TERRIBLY SORRY FOR THE LONG POST AND THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP!!!!

iam takeing a guess but i would think disconnect the battry then hook it back up drive truck 5 or so miles then try to pull codes again it should work.

OK, listen up, if you dont it can be costly. I had THE SAME EXACT THINGS GO WRONG ON MINE. This is what needs to be done, take your truck to a GOOD dealer (a real CERTIFIED FORD DEALER). More than likley your fuel injector(s) are stuck open or closed. What this does is it floods your system with excess fuel, this in turn will destroy your catalytic converter. There is a HUGE waiting list for cats, of which I just got off of after 76 days. (not fords fault, the part maker is having issues, but thats for another day).

Also, you may have some spark plug issues since you didnt them yourself, or the back 2. I advise you take it in immediately. I have seen first hand what can happen if you dont.

PLEASE send me a PM or email (treyawake@gmail.com) if you would like more help.

Thanks for responding. Yeah, I disconnected the battery and cleared the codes with the reader a few times. The check engine light does turn off, but after about a minute of driving, it comes back on. I drove it for a few days each time to give it the opportunity to store some more codes before reading it again. Same bs codes. I even took it to Schuck's and they were gracious enough to let me use the "best" (most expensive) reader they had, and that one wouldn't even link to my truck.



This one that I haven't come across yet, possible problems with the cat conv. If you don't mind my asking, how much $$ did that end up being? I did talk to a mechanic today, and he has also dealt with similar symptoms in this model truck. In those cases, he said the issue was one or more of the COPs were bad and he even had one where the COPs were good, but the plug had a weak spot where the spark was still firing, but it wasn't getting to the COP correctly. Something about a black streak on the side of the plug where the current was travelling (I don't remember what he called it). Anyhow, he suggested changing the back two plugs, then the checking all the plugs for these black marks, then change the COPs (tesing after each and moving on to the next if one doesn't fix it.) I am going to do that tonight, and if all is well with the plugs and COPs and there is still an issue, I think I am going to take Spooner65s advice. Thanks for the responses. If anyone else has any suggestions or info, I am all ears!!!

I doubt that it is bad injectors. They didn't have a problem in '04. It started with the '05 and lapped into the '06 a little bit. I am more inclined to think it is the 2 rear plugs or some bad COPs. To get to the rear plugs is a little difficult but can be done. On the R (passengers) side, if you unbolt the computer bracket from the firewall and fold it back out of the way (while still plugged in), it is much easier to get to the rear plug.

Ok, I was able to get some codes and readings. I know what the codes mean, but they all have several causes, all of which I have mentioned previously. Also, I cannot find anything anywhere to see if the readings are good or if there is something out of whack. So, here are the codes and readings. Hopefully someone can make sense of this and tell me if there is an indicator of the issue hidden in them.

Fuel system 1: Closed loop
Calculated load: 18.0%
Engine coolant: 194 degrees F
STFT Bank 1: 1.5%
LTFT Bank 1: 7.8%
STFT Bank 2: -2.3%
LTFT Bank 2: 7.8%
Engine RPM: 593
Ignition timing: 16.5 degrees
Intake Air temp: 98 degrees F
Mass Airflow Sp.: 000.48 lb/min
Throttle position: 76.8%

Codes: P2104, 0223, 0122, 2110, 0010, 0201, 0300, 0708, 0743

If this additional info points to the cause of the problem, please let me know! Thanks!

boot strap broken off along with chuncks of cermamic and metal casinfg. assuming the pieces fell into the engine. nyway, what damage will these pieces cause me? and hope they don't fry the pistons/rings and crack the block. Would post a pic of the incredible damage to this BRAND NEW PLUG, but I cannot figure out how to do that. Is it possible they burned up or went into the oil pan? Or am I gonna have to rip it apart to get them out?

assuming I read your last post correctly all I can say is STOP!!!!!!! if the ceramic and metal sleeve have dropped into the cylinder this has probably gone above your level. so DO NOT start the engine just suck it up and call a shop or the dealer. sounds like you have just suffered the "worst" case scenario

The pieces of plug came apart when the plug blew, last Saturday, so it has been started several times since then attempting to fix it and diagnose the prob, and driven to work everyday. I talked to a Ford mechanic, and he said if there hasn't been a prob by now, the pieces have burned up or disintegrated by now. Is that not true?

They are tiny pieces, not the whole ceramic part and whole sleeve, just pieces of them. I cannot figure out how to post a pic, or I would put one of the plug on here so you could see what it did. It's very bizarre.