Ford F150 - Change Rotors on 1990 F-150 4WD w/ Dana 44 IFS auto locking

LandMan

Completely new to 4x4 so forgive my terminology. I thought changing rotors would be easy - NOT! I removed the autolocking hub cover, then removed the band, holding key and the auto locking assembly. I was faced with getting the correct spindle socket with 4 teeth around the edges for the Dana 44 IFS auto locking hubs (finally located one) and was ready to remove the 4 slot ring; however, there appears to be a washer in front of it and also a C clamp holding it in place that will rotate slightly but I can't seem to remove it.

1. Can someone tell me "how or with what tool that I might remove the retaining C clamp so that I might remove the washer and then use the special socket wrench to remove the rest of materials.

2. I could really use some step by step materials and or pictures(exploding diagrams, etc.)on how to remove and reasemble down to the point of removing the actaul rotor assembly and replacing with a new one. I understand now that there are many parts involved in this particular 4wd vehicle but I love it - it was my dad's before his passing and it only has 38k miles.

3. Any pitfalls on reassembling all these 4wd related pieces, besides the need to clean them and apply ample grease?

Due to the age of the vehicle and plastic piston rotors, I am basically replacing both front rotors, calipers, pads, brake lines, etc. So any help would be very much appreciated...I have been asking around everywhere locally and no-one really knows much.

Thx
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Working on the 4WD

millertime1980 · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:55 pm Post subject:

I would probably recommend getting a Haynes manual if you want some good diagrams for removing parts. Thanks to Steve83 here is an online view of the way it comes apart. Click on the Brakes and Hubs section and check it out.

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742#album
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300 Inline 6, 4x4, 5 speed manual
Six in a Row Makes It Go!!

Steve83 · Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:06 pm Post subject:

1. You can use 2 screwdrivers to push it off, or a sharp straight probe to pick it from the back, but I usually just use 2 fingers.

2 & 3.

My Brakes & Hubs album shows almost everything you need to know.
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. '99 CV RIP

LandMan · Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:46 pm Post subject:

Thanks Everyone. A mechanic friend of mine showed me a set of pliers called snap ring pliers and told me that they would remove the item referred to in Steve83's diagram as "C" Washer # 38457. I purhcased the OEM pliers item number 25012, but they are not correct for this "c" washer since, as far as I can tell it is not a snap ring at all. I will try the two screwdrive approach and the fingers approach. I trid the fingers before; but was not certain it would release until you confirmed it. I wonder if Ford makes a specialty tool for such a purpose? Any thoughts.

By the way thanks so much for the brake and hub album. There were several diagrams and pics that have been immensly helpful. And thanks to Millertime1980 for pointing me to the album early on.

LandMan

LandMan · Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:41 pm Post subject:

Update: Success on the fingers and two screwdriver approach to removing the "c" Washer. I was able to disassemble all the parts. Hammered out the lugs from the old rotor and hub assembly and removed the wheel bearing. The "Race" stayed in side the hub. Now I have a couple of questions:

1. Truck has only 38k miles and 4wd has not been used much so all components look in great shape and th wheel bearing as well. Since this is the case, do I still need to clean all the grease off the spindle, wheel bearing, remove the race?? or leave it in place. Or can I simply reassemble all the pieces and just add good quality grease in addition to what is there?

2. This may be a dumb ? but I need know how you guys apply the existing hub back to the "new" rotor. The hub and lugs are a bit rusty so they are not hammering into place in the new rotor very well so I need to ask: first does it matter which holes line up with which holes between the hub and "new" rotor and what is the best method to drive the lugs back into place tight. I tried a bit of grease around the lugs and small piece of wood as a hammering buffer block, along with a hammer; however they do not seem to want to sink all the way in. Just making sure not to do anyting that would damage any component.

Steve83 · Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:47 am Post subject:

1. Only if you plan to replace the bearings. Otherwise, leave the races in & just wipe them, then repack the old bearings. Be sure to fill the void between the bearings as shown, but use good EP disk brake grease.

2. Clean the grease off thoroughly, using carb cleaner first, then brake cleaner. Never allow any lubricant to contaminate the brake surfaces or linings. Use a steel drift (punch) to set the lug studs. When you put the wheels back on, torque them according to this:

The orientation between hub & rotor is insignificant - they're both balanced. How to fully seat the studs after a rotor swap is described in this caption:

LandMan · Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:37 pm Post subject:

So far so good. Thx so much. Even with low mileage the age of the vehichle calls for replacement of the brake hoses from the fender well point out to the new calipers. The only problem I have is where the new rubber hoses attach to the inside fender well housing. There appears to be a Ford part called a clip that is on the inside part of the fender well and a couple of other nuts or c-rings and clamps. The trouble is that there is sooooo much rust that it seems like all the pieces are just fused together as one.

1. I would love any "pointers", "steps", "pieces identification", and especially "exploded" diagrams of where that hose attaches to the inside fender well. I looked in the brakes and hubs folder and some other folders and did not see that particular diagram.

2. Is there a special tool to remove the clip that is on the "engine-side" of the fender well?

P.S.
1. I have heard through the grapevine that the brakes are not sooooo great for this year model since the calipers use plastic pistons. Is there any truth to this plastic piston talk, and if so is there a way to obtain calipers that do not have the plastic pistons?

2. For this 1990 F-150 I obtained my calipers, rotors, pads and hoses from autozone because they are soooo close to my house. On my 1997 F-150 with 172K miles I replaced all these same items with Genuine Ford parts and WoW they perform very well. But the budget for this 1990 is leaner. I bought the duralast gold pads. Any thoughts.

Steve83 · Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:08 pm Post subject:

That's not the inner fender - it's the shock/spring tower. The inner fender is the plastic wheelwell.

I don't think I've ever seen a good diagram showing how that hose is attached to the tower, but I'll try to essplane...

1) Remove the hard line from the inboard side of the tower & pull it clear of the fitting on the tower. Cap the line to prevent fluid drainage.

2) Find the 180° bent end of the spring clip, and lift the OTHER end away from the tower (over the fitting), then push the clip sideways off the fitting. Any pick tool should work.

3) Pull the fitting end of the hose out of the tower.

Yes, it's possible you have phenolic pistons, but there's nothing wrong with them. They transfer LESS heat to the brake fluid, and they're more dimensionally stable than metal (they don't expand/contract). You can probably find reman calipers with whichever type of piston you want, and they should be ~$25 ea either way.

The biggest problem with these brakes is overtightening the lug nuts.

Stay OUT of the zone!

Take that $#!+ back & buy from Advance or O'Reilly. JMO