How To Install a Powertrax Locker

Here's how you can a locking differential or locker to your F-150. This article applies to any RWD or 4WD truck. Thanks to member biggoldie for the write-up.

Powertrax Lock-Right By Richmond gear Information and installation simplified.

The Lock-Right is a great way to add traction to any “applicable” vehicle. The Locker will give you 100% power to both rear wheels, and is totally different in operation than a limited slip differential. It is also fully automatic in operation. To “my” benefit, it especially works well with the Ford 8.8 rear end. The unit can be installed without having to remove the entire carrier from the Rear end assembly. This makes equipping your vehicle with ultimate traction cheap and easy. The Lock Right is also something that must be adjusted to once equipped. It is mainly addressed as an off-road piece of equipment, but the right drivers will have no issues with on-road use. At the end of the installation, I will explain what to expect with the new added traction.

These directions and pointers are here to help people understand the installation process, how the unit works, and what to expect during and after installation. I installed the Lock-Right into my truck with ease and no modification. The instructions and information I’ve provided are to be used as a guideline and information only. During actual installation, the manual that comes with the unit should always be used, therefore I cannot be held responsible for any mistakes made.

Installation Instructions

To begin, put wheel chalks under the front tires. next you will want to jack your truck up and get it perched on axle stands. Now remove move the battery cable . This allows you to leave the vehicle in neutral without draining your battery.

Next apply the parking brake, and remove the tire furthest from the ring gear (F-150 is right side). Once the tire is off, you can remove the parking brake and back off the E-brake shoes. There is a rubber plug located on the back of the rotor shroud. Pull it out, and back the shoes off using a flat head screwdriver. Also you will need to remove your brake caliper so the axle can be pulled in and out

Now you can begin the process of removing the differential cover and the planetary gears.

Removing the diff cap is easy. Use a 13mm socket, and pry the cap off with a screw driver, putty knife etc. Now that you can see the internals, it would be a good idea to look around to see if everything looks ok before you install you new hardware. If everything checks out, turn your carrier by spinning the pinion via the driveshaft. Locate the cross pin retaining bolt and remove with a 8mm socket. Now, slide the cross shaft out.

Next, you must test the cross shaft for hardness and steel quality. If you can gouge the shaft “easily” with a file, it is to soft and a Richmond pin must be acquired (P# 3991003RDE). A file will scratch most surfaces, including a hard shaft. It is a judgement call, if you feel the pin is to soft, wait and get the harder one. Most F-150’s come with a hard shaft, its the earlier models that had the softer steel in the cross shafts.

Now you can remove the planetary gears by rotating the carrier again with the driveshaft. The gears will un-mesh and the top and bottom gears will turn out by themselves. Once the top and bottom gears and washers are out, you can remove the C clips and the side gears. You may have to pull the axle out a bit, to get clearance for removal.

You must reuse the thrust washers on the side gears with the Lock-right drivers.

Start by lightly greasing the thrust washers and putting them on the drivers on the carrier mating side. (as shown)

Install the first driver on the ring gear side. It will slide on the splines with ease, and push it so it seats into the carrier, then replace the C clip to retain it. Next I will explain the quick check test for proper clearance and operation of the unit.

Now, pull the axle out slightly, install the driver on the opposite side making sure that it is seated into the carrier and replace the C clip.

Next, take the round spacers and hold them in place with the side shown below in contact with the drivers. You will see where it is dished out for the C clip. Then slide the cross shaft back into place to begin the check.

With a set of feeler gauges, determine the gap between the spacers (not the axles) and the cross shaft. There should be no more than .0020” gap, and no greater difference between the two than .0008”. (Stated in the back of the owners manual)

If you have to large of a gap, you need to get new thrush washers, or get the proper spacers to insure proper fit and operation. Now you can remove the cross shaft, the spacers and the C clip from the axle with no wheel. Make sure that the axle is pushed out so that the face of the driver and the end of the axle are flush. (as shown in the 4th picture)

Next, grease the coupler and the spacer so that it sticks together for a easily install.

Also install the shear pins into the slots in the couplers.

Now set the spacers into the couplers so that the dished out part will be mated to the drivers.

Make note of the flat sides on the coupler. This allows them to fit through the carrier window. Slide the ring gear side coupler/spacer on to the axle first. You will have to hold it there so you can install the other side as well.

Once you get the opposite side started have a partner, our use your foot like me push the axle in slowly to slide into the coupler/spacer. Now you can replace the C clip in the axle by rotating the coupler so that the flat side is apparent. You slide the C clip down through there to replace it on the axle.

Once you have finished that, you should end up like this. (below picture)

Next, slide all your shear pins through into the opposite driver.

Once complete, you can replace the Cross shaft. It will be tight to replace, so rotate the carrier so that you can get your finger in the opposite hole and help guide it through.

Reinstall the cross shaft retaining bolt using a light dab of loc-tite to insure it won’t go anywhere.

Now that the unit is assembled, you must install the coupler springs. There are 2 springs per slot, one small one inside a larger. Use some grease to hold the springs together for ease of installation

Carefully slide them into the slot, making sure that they are seated properly.

Congratulations!!! You’ve successfully installed your Lock–Right

To test the operation, and insure the springs are seated, have a partner hold the locked wheel in one direction with the vehicle in park. The other wheel should spin freely in the opposite direction with a ratchet effect.

Do the test on both sides and re inspect the unit before buttoning it up. If your happy, install your diff cover, fill with fluid, (75-140W) and road test.

Driving characteristics of the Lock-Right

On a normal open differential, it is the outside wheel that retains the power to drive you through a corner. With the Lock-Right, it is the inside wheel. On a sharp corner from a dead stop the inside wheel will slip fairly easy. So care must be taken not to accidentally Lock up your rear end in a corner.

You will want to be gradual and easy on the gas while “dead stop“ cornering. If lock up does occur, letting off the gas will unlock the unit. Any normal cornering, on ramps, etc, you won’t even know its there besides the ratchet sound. Driving in the slush, snow or on icy surfaces will be much nicer, but care must be taken.

Since your Differential will be “locked” while going down roads straight, hydro planing and loose surfaces can catch you off guard. A limited slip has some forgiveness when the wheels come into contact with different surfaces, but with a locker, your vehicle could kick out, or “fish tail” easily by accident.

Driver awareness is an asset for smooth, safe operation! I hope the information has been helpful.

Biggoldie

Related technical articles:

• How to replace your F150 front axle
• How to change your differential fluid

Locking differential discussions in the F150 forum

• where can i get a locker?
• what are lockers?
• 2010 F150 rear diff locker?
• powertrax lock right locker
• What's not to like about Powertrax No-Slip?
• powertrax vs LSD

Powertrax Installation video by Stacey David Gearz

Keywords: locker locking diff differential axle rearend powertrax lsd limited slip posi grip slip traction rwd 4wd tractionlok