How To Repair the Power Window Regulator / Motor

How to change or repair the power window regulator / motor or replace the window, by bmstichter

2004-2008 F-150 - Full Size Doors - Side windows only - (Crew Cab all 4) - (Regular cab and Super cab front 2)

Can be done in as little as 1-2 hours, I would allow more time just to be sure

Tools Required

• Socket wrench and sockets (not sure on exact sizes)
• 3 inch extension
• Flat head screwdriver
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Trim removal tool (optional)
• Torx bits (only needed to remove window motor)

Optional Supplies

• Masking tape or other window protector
• Epoxy
• Sand paper
• Degreaser
• A cotter pin
• Silicone lubricant
• Silicone sealer
• Zip tie
• Heat gun
• Small V or U shaped chisel
• Sandpaper
• Small nail

Procedure

Step 1 - Locate the screws that hold the door panel on:
(2)- By the door handle
(2)- At the bottom of the panel

To get to the screws by the door handle you need to remove the access panel. Remove all (4) fasteners and save them.

Step 2 - This is where the trim removal tool starts to come in handy

You will need to remove the window control panel by prying it upward at the seam, opposite side of the door panel. Once pried up it will be able to be removed by sliding it away from the door panel.

There is a quick connect piece that is connected into the control panel there is a button on it that releases the connector. Press the button and separate it to remove the control panel.

Step 3 - You now need to remove the door panel

There is one more screw that is holding the door panel on; it is in the cavity that is left when you removed the control panel (I used a screwdriver bit with a ¼ inch socket wrench and a bit adapter, but a flexible shaft, on a bit driver, or a small enough screwdriver would work fine) mine was a Phillips head.

There are clips that hold the door panel in place I like the trim removal tool because it pops them off easily Either way you will need to pry off the door panel it takes a bit of pressure but they will come out Be careful not to pull too hard because the door handle is still going to be attached to the door panel, when all of the clips are out lift the panel upwards there is a lip that sits inside the window opening.

To remove the door handle assembly you need to pry the tabs back that hold it into the panel (try to be careful not to break them). You then need to push the assembly through the opening towards the inside of the cab, then turn it and pull the door panel off making sure that the assembly passes through sideways so that it wont get caught up on the panel.

You might then need to remove a plastic bracket that is sticking out of the door.

For the rear window- there will be an extra piece of trim that will need to be removed.

Step 4 - There is a water shield on the inside of the door that needs to be removed.

Basically you peel it off the plastic layer from the adhesive leave some in the door so it can be replaced easily (if you don’t get it dirty.)
I have found that it is easiest to start in the corner and work my way around keeping my direction of pull going with the adhesive, never having my hands more than a foot away to keep minimal stretching to the plastic barrier. And if you have trouble starting a utility knife can help, but makes sure to cut the adhesive leaving some on the door and some on the plastic. Put it in a place that won’t get dirty so that it can be put back on easily without other adhesives.

Step 5 - Once you have the water shield off you can see the regulator and mounting bolts (Green) and regulator as well as the window clamps and the window clamps. The clamps for my window gave the option if a socket or torx bit. Either one will work, just make sure that they fit.

At this point I would recommend attempting to protect your window it is extremely likely that if you have tint they will end up scratched during this step if you don’t, and they might get scratched either way. I tried masking tape around where I thought was in jeopardy but I was not successful. You might be but I would suggest covering the whole window if you have tint.

I would also tape off and protect any painted surface that the glass might make contact with possibly use towels to pad but it can’t be too thick of a barrier it is a tight fit. This is also a good time to prepare a place to place the window once it is removed.

Pay close attention to the way that the weather stripping is in place.

NOTE: THE PROCEDURE IS DIFFERENT FOR THE FRONT AND BACK WINDOWS

Front Windows

For the Front window I found that the easiest place to reach the window clamp bolts was about half way up, but adjust it so you can get to both of them. (You are able to move the window up and down once one bolt is loosened so you can get to the other easer)
Loosen the two bolts holding the window in just enough for them to let the window loose, and then lower the window all the way down

Next remove the weather stripping around the window there should be two pieces.

To remove the window you will need to slide it out of the clamps that you loosened lower it down beside the regulator, and begin to lift it out, but as you do you will need to rotate the window 90° the rear part of the window should come out first while the front tilts down. (This is where you will want to take your time, and it helps to have a second set of hands)
Also the front window is removed on the outside of the window frame.

Rear Windows

For the rear windows while similar to the front there are differences. I found that it is easiest to get one of the bolts for the clamps while the other was easier with the window all the way up. After the clamps are loosened lower the window completely, remove the weather stripping around the window opening.

Remove the window from the clamps and lower the window into the door all the way down. There are two grooves in the window one is easier to get the window out of than the other (I believe that it was the inside one).

You will need to pull the window up without rotating it and I believe that it can be removed easier if the window goes to the inside of the window frame.

Step 6

Now that the window is removed and out of the way it is time to remove the window regulator. There are (4) green bolts inside of the door that hold the regulator tracks in place and there is (1) bolt that secures the motor to the door. There is also a quick connect plug that comes off of the motor. (See pic 1. in step 5)

First loosen the (4) green bolts one or two turns should be sufficient.

After that remove the quick connect plug from the window motor

Then remove the last bolt that holds the motor to the door. (The motor is attached to a bracket that is attached to one of the tracks.

Once all of the bolts have been loosened and the one removed you can slide both of the tracks upward and forward to detach them from the door.

They can now be removed through the crevice in the door
I found that diagonal, along with one track, and one end at a time is the easiest technique.

Step 7

Once the regulator is removed you can now examine it for the problem. The easiest way to do this to lay it down in the X pattern that it was installed on the window. If there is any slack in the cable that is a problem, there must be a reason for it.

Start by examining the cable if it is frayed, coming apart or snapped I would recommend buying a whole new regulator with a new pulley for the motor. (I would recommend saving some stress and buying the whole thing pre-assembled with the motor)

If the cables came loose and there is no damage to them, check the plastic where the cable ends connect to the window clamps on the slide.

If you find a chip missing where the cable is held in place it can be repaired, or replaced if you can find the piece (This is where the cotter pin and the epoxy come in handy)

If there is damage to where it meets the rail you might be able to hold it on with a zip tie but I would not recommend it, I would replace it or at least get the part so if or when it broke again you could fix it correctly

If you do not see any problems with the rails and the slides check the pulleys on the tops and bottoms of the rails where the cable should be fed through.

There should be 2 semicircular cutouts on each of these this is how you are able to feed the cable through them you must line the cutouts up with the outside and place the cable in them possibly having to turn them slightly to get the cable to go in fully

If there are no problems there look at the motor assembly and the pulley. If the wire is frayed there it most likely cut up the pulley and stripped it so that the cable falls off.

At this point you should pay careful attention to how the cables are seated in the pulley if you put them in backwards the cables will not be tight enough and the window will work backwards, and eventually fall again.

Now you will have to use the torx bits to separate the motor from the bracket. There are (3) torx screws that need to be removed. When you do this the pulley will slide off of the motor, when you pull it straight back.

To test the motor the easiest thing to do is to plug it back in to the quick connect and use either the driver master control panel or plug in the control panel to test it, but make sure the key is in the on position and you are getting power to the motor.

Step 8 - Repair or replace (replace option skip to step 9)

Once you have diagnosed the problem with the regulator or motor and you have decided to fix or replace it remember that it is under a lot of pressure from the time that you put it back together on.

MASTER PULLEY- If there no problems with the cables and something happened to the master pulley (the one that attached to the motor). There might be a way to repair it by making the grooves and ridges smoother, more defined, and symmetrical. I would not recommend this with any major damage to it.

You will need a small V or U shaped chisel, propane torch or heat gun, fine grit sand paper, and a nail that fits into the grooves perfectly. A lathe or a drill with a screw, washer, and nut, help but are not a necessity.

The heat is to soften the plastic but don’t burn it the chisel is to remove any larger chunks of plastic and the sandpaper is used to sand it out and make it smooth the nail is to make a contour sander.

The drill with a screw, washer, and nut create a makeshift slow speed lathe and I recommend slow speed if you have a lathe.
This is not 100% effective but it will work if you take your time and are careful as long as it isn’t in that bad of shape.

SLIDE REPAIR (chipped around cable) – if there is a small chip in the slide where the cable is held in you can repair it using a cotter pin and epoxy (make sure that the cotter pin has an eye that the cable end cannot slide through).

First degrease the slide and make sure that there is nothing that is going to prevent the epoxy from adhering to the plastic.
Then use some fine grit sand paper to help with adhesion

Make sure that all of the dust and degreaser is removed and the piece is dry and clear of contaminants

Separate the fins of the cotter pin just enough to insert the cable between them and slide the cable into the eye

Insert the fins of the cotter pin through the hole that the cable goes into and on the other side separate the fins make sure you make it tight and close to the plastic, and that it won’t interfere with the mechanisms. Also make sure that the cable is able to be seated where it is meant to be (there is barely enough slack as it is you wont be able to re-assemble it).
After you have made sure that everything will work mix the epoxy and put it around where the cable and cotter pin are and try to fill in the chip missing.

Wait a while before you reassemble the regulator (I used 60 second epoxy and waited 3 hours so it was closer to its maximum strength then if I used it 1 hour later max was 24 hours which is ideal)

I did this 3 months ago and it is still strong

Re-assembly

To re assemble the regulator make sure that all of the cables are securely seated in the slides then make sure that the cables run through all of the (4) pulleys on the rails then that the cable end connectors (Grey with a spring inside) are fitted into the cutouts that they fit into tightly.
Then make sure that you feed the cables correctly through the housing on the mount for the window motor, place a cable into its corresponding opening and wind it up on the pulley.

When you get close to the end start the other side, if you do it right it should be tight, to the point where you question if it is too tight.
I used a screwdriver to pry the pulley into place using the hole on the mount as a geode to line the hole up to. After you do that, be sure that the cable is properly seated on the pulley and then fit the motor onto it, and re-align the screws and fasten it tightly.

Step 9 - Re-assembly

Basically the reverse of the removal

Install the regulator tighten in all (4) bolts and fasten the motor to the door

Re connect the motor quick connect

Re install the window (be careful again). Remember that you must lower the window completely to the bottom of the door to get it back in the right track

Before you clamp the window in you must replace the weather stripping exactly the way that it was when you started with the window in the right crease and the weather stripping all the way in place (if it is off you will resist the window going up and put stress on the parts that you just repaired or replaced and it has the ability to break itself)

When you are getting ready to clamp the window you should first raise it by hand to double check the weather stripping and then once you are sure that it is in place lower the window onto the clamps (use the dirt marks likely on the glass to give you a general area.

Try to raise the window to be sure that it is in place and if possible tighten them while it is all the way up and then test it before continuing

Once the window is tightened into place you can put the water shield back on match up the adhesive exactly any problems with it I would use silicone sealant. Make sure that you pull the door handle through.

If the water shield was stretched use a heat gun to try to shrink it but don’t get the plastic too hot or you will burn a hole in it keep the heat gun at least 6 inched away and keep it moving that will help

If you removed the plastic bracket on the door replace it

Pop the door handle back into the door panel

Feed the wire for the control panel through the cavity and hang the lip over the window

Press the clips back into the door to fasten the panel

Replace the screw that you removed from the cavity in the control panel and the screws that secured the door panel to the door

Replace the access panel

Remove the tape and protective barrier

And you have repaired your window regulator / motor

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